This page contains questions about LEDs in
general and in relation to our products
In 90% of most cases you will find an answer to your LED related question
in this section of our web site..
All the questions we've encountered over two years of business are
on this web page We have taken great efforts compiling these FAQs and will update
this page constantly
Please before you use the email - exhaust
this Frequently Asked Questions page...!
We have introduced globe type Edison base
and bayonet base units in a multiple voltage format.
Several technological improvements have been incorporated
into these units, variations in voltage and current have
caused many problems for us in the past.
The small base units are suitable for architectural type
lights such as candelabra, under cabinet, home theatre
to give a few examples.
Currently the main news for solid-state 240v LED bulbs
is more indirect ambient lighting with new models starting
to find some popularity.
Customer preference is for warm white and to cater that
we are slowly introducing daylight and warm white versions
wherever possible.
Previously we've had a few problems packing transformers
inside bulbs, traditional magnetic transformers cause
a buzzing noise and electronic transformers are temperamental..
The June 2007 releases incorporate new technology eliminating
previous transformer issues.
Do you have anything
to replace my standard 60w and 100 w household light bulbs?
What product is comparable to a 75 watt bulb ?
There really isn't an LED bulb comparable
to a 75 W bulb on the market yet.
We are in the process of producing 40 W incandescent equivalents
and hopefully will be introducing brighter models in the
near future.
We want to make a quality product that will last, currently
we can produce a 75 W bulb equivalent but we can't make
it last.
Heat is a problem with diodes and vacating or extracting
the heat away from the diode as quickly as possible is
key to the longevity of an LED.
So we need to produce bulbs that either produce less heat
for the diode or we make diodes that vacate the heat much
faster than previous models.
That's the challenge for us right now, even though LEDs
produce much less heat than conventional bulbs that heat
produced by the diode is enough to harm the diode is left
in the vicinity of the diode for any length of time.
The closest we've got would be our 6 watt PAR38 lamps
in E27 base - lightoutput close to a 40 watt incendescant
household bulb.
How long will my 240v
LED light bulb last?
Commercially and domestically, LED light
bulbs cannot realistically replace incandescent dollar
for lumen unless they achieve their full service lifetime.
Two critical factors affect the life of an LED, constant
current without fluctuation and proper maintenance of
the junction temperature.
The junction basically is the point at where the light
is generated, this junction needs to be kept stable at
all times and constant current drivers are essential to
maintain proper electrical and thermal stability of the
junction.
We incorporate every measure possible to ensure full service
lifetime of the bulb, you should realise a full 50,000
hours from these units.
Our newer models are voltage adaptable 80~260 Volt AC
How much power will I
save using LED bulbs?
We've found that there are some power losses
associated with running low voltage LED directly from
high voltage AC/DC supplies.
In other words when you run LEDs from batteries and any
other low voltage DC source you're running them at their
maximum efficiency.
Usually LED bulbs are set up in groups (or series) of
3 running at around 3.5vDC each.
Even though your 240vAC bulb is consuming 240vAC power
it is actually providing low voltage DC current to the
LEDs as currently all commercial LED operate on DC current.
So there's a transformer inside the bulb converting 240vAC
to low voltage DC - that's where the power losses are.
Ultimately though you'll save lots of power due mainly
to the fact that you'll adapt more to the lower light
levels of LED, the bulbs will last longer and will run
relatively efficiently.
Can I use dimmers or
controllers with LED bulbs?
As a rule, no, dimmers and controllers often
send current spikes into bulbs which can damage or kill
an LED bulb.
Is the package
any longer than 240V GU10 halogen spotlight and if it
is by how much?
Height including pin height is 56mm
How sensitive these lights are
to power spikes from the grid?
Excellent now ( 3 years later) - the variable range amongst
other improvements has improved things (80~260v) - the
lower of the voltages being the killer.
We had heaps of problems first up - think they went back
to the factory 3 times - just weren't experienced with
Oz 240v conditions.
I've noticed a
slight noise coming from the bulbs - what is it?
We're basically bottlenecking voltage and current.
We're reducing 240vAC down to about 4vDC at 750mA of current.
Its a very low decibel reading and you can only hear it
within 200 mm.
If you compare it with the ballast of luciferase bulb,
the noise is much lower.
We're still working to reduce the decibel rating and with
the use of external drivers we'll reduce about 50% of
that decibel rating again..
These bulbs change color every 2 seconds
and go through a transition of red, green & blue plus
all the hues between them primary colors.
It is not programmable
If you are running multiple bulbs on the same power they
will syncronise the pattern.
NEW improved model.
Beehive style for optimum light spread.
I have installed
a number of the BC22 24 LED globes to replace incandescent
globes.
When the light switch is off I note that the LEDs still
glow very dimly.
We suspect it may be because the wiring in your house
uses positive wiring for the switching.
This came to us from a very knowledgeable customer and
we think he's on to something.
With a large voltage applied and such a low current draw,
it does not take much capacitance to earth for a small
current to flow.
Its enough to light the lamp dimly.
Switching the neutral results in a large active-earth
potential existing all the time
Switching the active results in only a neutral-earth potential
being present, which is usually in the order of a couple
of volts.
Even in the worst of installations it's never much more
than about 15volts, not high enough for the capacitance
to earth to cause a current to flow that will break the
threshold required to light the LED....
Previously we were implying an effect similar to phosphorescence,
where things like TV picture tubes remain luminous after
being switched off - but there is no electron flow as
such.
Will this affect the life expectancy
of the globes
Honestly can't say - the mA reading isn't enough to fry
anything nor is the internal transformer under any duress.
I'd have to say that it wouldn't affect the lifetime of
the bulb which under normal circumstances should be 10
years or so.
Its your city mains power that kills all appliances, bulbs
and everything else in the end.
If you have good gear think of UPS protection on stereos.
lighting circuits etc
NEW improved model.
Beehive style for optimum light spread.
I have installed
a number of the E27 24 LED globes to replace incandescent
globes.
When the light switch is off I note that the LEDs still
glow very dimly.
We suspect it may be because the wiring in your house
uses positive wiring for the switching.
This came to us from a very knowledgeable customer and
we think he's on to something.
With a large voltage applied and such a low current draw,
it does not take much capacitance to earth for a small
current to flow.
Its enough to light the lamp dimly.
Switching the neutral results in a large active-earth
potential existing all the time
Switching the active results in only a neutral-earth potential
being present, which is usually in the order of a couple
of volts.
Even in the worst of installations it's never much more
than about 15volts, not high enough for the capacitance
to earth to cause a current to flow that will break the
threshold required to light the LED....
Previously we were implying an effect similar to phosphorescence,
where things like TV picture tubes remain luminous after
being switched off - but there is no electron flow as
such
Will this affect
the life expectancy of the globes
Honestly can't say - the mA reading isn't enough to fry
anything nor is the internal transformer under any duress.
I'd have to say that it wouldn't affect the lifetime of
the bulb which under normal circumstances should be 10
years or so.
Its your city mains power that kills all appliances, bulbs
and everything else in the end.
If you have good gear think of UPS protection on stereos.
Lighting circuits etc
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